The Underwater Nativity of Villalago: Abruzzo’s Submerged Christmas
Imagine a Christmas scene unlike any other, where the flicker of candles reflects not on snow, but on the crystalline depths of a mountain lake. In the heart of Abruzzo, one of Italy’s most rugged and authentic regions, a truly extraordinary tradition unfolds each year: an underwater Nativity scene (Presepe Subacqueo). This isn't just a quirky holiday display; it is a deeply cherished, decades-old custom held on the tranquil shores of Lago di San Domenico, near the village of Villalago.
For travelers seeking a blend of sacred mystery, local folklore, and breathtaking nature, this submerged spectacle offers a touch of genuine Italian holiday magic. Within the silence of the Sagittario Valley, the community comes together to celebrate a ritual that bridges the gap between the terrestrial and the aquatic, making it one of the most unique Christmas traditions in Italy.
Discovering Villalago: One of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages
Before diving into the ceremony, it is essential to understand its stage. Villalago is an enchanting borgo (village) officially recognized as one of the Borghi più belli d’Italia. Home to fewer than 500 residents, it is nestled within the dramatic Gole del Sagittario (Sagittario Gorges), a Regional Nature Reserve and a WWF Oasis known for its sheer limestone cliffs and rare flora.
Perched at 930 meters above sea level, Villalago rests at the feet of Monte Genzana. Historically, its position was strategic for controlling the passage between the Peligna Valley and the upper Sangro area. Dominating the skyline is the Rocca, a medieval fortress with a Lombard-style cylindrical tower that once served as a vital lookout and prison. Today, wandering through its labyrinth of stone-paved alleys and ancient staircases feels like stepping back into the 11th century, far removed from the modern world’s frantic pace.
The Spiritual Legacy of San Domenico Abate
The spiritual pulse of the area centers on San Domenico Abate, a Benedictine monk who lived here as a hermit around the year 1000. He is deeply venerated as a protector against toothaches and wild animals. On the banks of the lake stands the Eremo di San Domenico (Hermitage), a small sanctuary partially carved into the rock. Inside, a narrow staircase leads to the cave where the saint used to pray and sleep.
The Lago di San Domenico itself is an artificial basin created in the early 20th century to feed the Sagittario hydroelectric plant. Despite its industrial origins, its waters have taken on a mesmerizing emerald-green hue that contrasts perfectly with the grey limestone of the gorges. This sacred setting provides the backdrop for the Presepe Subacqueo, which takes place annually on December 26th (St. Stephen’s Day).
- The Hermitage: A 15th-century porch leading to a medieval cave of worship.
- The Legend: San Domenico is said to have tamed a wolf that had stolen a baby from a local cradle, a miracle still celebrated today.
- The Landscape: Part of a wider ecological corridor connecting the Abruzzo, Lazio, and Molise National Park.
The Underwater Nativity: A Sacred Spectacle on the Lake
The Villalago Underwater Nativity began in the late 1990s and has since grown into a national attraction. The display consists of six ceramic statues-Mary, Joseph, Baby Jesus, and the Three Wise Men-meticulously crafted to withstand the underwater environment. After sunset on December 26th, the ceremony begins as a solemn torchlight procession moves from the village down to the lakeside.
A dedicated team of local divers takes center stage. The statues are placed on floating rafts and escorted to the center of the lake. In a silence broken only by traditional Christmas carols and the splashing of oars, the divers gently lower the holy figures into the depths. The scene is illuminated by underwater spotlights and surface torches, creating a ghostly, ethereal glow beneath the water’s surface.
The culmination of the divers' effort is celebrated with a spectacular fireworks display that illuminates the entire gorge. Once submerged, the Nativity remains visible from the bridge and the shore throughout the holiday season, thanks to the lake's remarkable transparency. It serves as a symbol of the community's connection to the water, which has historically provided both spiritual peace and industrial energy.
Practical Logistics for Your Visit
How to Reach Villalago
- By Car: Take the A25 Motorway (Roma-Pescara) and exit at Cocullo. From there, follow the SP479 through the scenic Gole del Sagittario toward Villalago and Scanno. (Note: The road is winding but stunning).
- By Public Transport: The nearest major train station is Sulmona. From the Sulmona bus terminal, take the TUA Abruzzo regional bus toward Scanno, stopping at Villalago.
- By Plane: The closest airports are Pescara (PSR)-approx. 1 hour away-and Rome Ciampino (CIA)-approx. 2 hours away.
Parking Tips
- Near the Lake: There is a small parking lot adjacent to the Hermitage of San Domenico. During the event on December 26th, it fills up very quickly; arrive early!
- In the Village: Use the public parking at the entrance of the village (Via Iommella) and walk down to the lakefront (approx. 15-20 min walk).
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is the underwater Nativity visible after December 26th?
Yes, the statues typically remain submerged until the Epiphany (January 6th). They are visible from the bridge overlooking Lago di San Domenico during daylight hours, though the best viewing experience is during the illuminated ceremony on the 26th.
What should I wear for the event?
Since Villalago is located at 900+ meters in the Apennines, December temperatures often drop below freezing. High-altitude winter clothing, thermal layers, and sturdy shoes for the stone-paved alleys are essential.
Can I visit the Hermitage and the Lake for free?
Yes, access to the Eremo di San Domenico and the lakefront is free of charge. However, donations are welcomed at the hermitage to support its maintenance and the archaeological research of the ancient monastery.
Photo Credits (in order of appearance):
• Gianly87, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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