Welcome to a journey along the stunning shores of Lake Como! Today, we're exploring the Giro delle 4 Chiese in Tremezzina, a captivating route that weaves through history, art, and breathtaking scenery. This isn't just a walk; it's an immersion into the heart of this beautiful Italian region.
The Green Way, a popular path that hugs the lakeside, is our starting point. As we wander, our eyes are drawn upwards to discover ancient treasures. This area is rich with history, and the Giro delle 4 Chiese offers a unique way to experience it.
We'll be visiting four remarkable churches, each with its own story to tell. From a Romanesque gem to a sacred mountain sanctuary, this itinerary promises a delightful blend of culture and natural beauty. Get ready to discover the magic of Tremezzina!
The Four Churches: A Glimpse into History
The heart of this tour lies in its four main stops. Each church represents a different era and a different facet of the local heritage. Let's take a closer look at these incredible landmarks:
Chiesa dei Santi Giacomo e Filippo
Our adventure begins at the Chiesa dei Santi Giacomo e Filippo. This church, located right on the Green Way in Ossuccio, dates back to the late 11th century. It's a stone's throw from the lake and sits directly opposite the famous Isola Comacina. Imagine the centuries that have passed since this church first stood here!
The oratory has remarkably retained its original structure. Inside, you can still admire ancient frescoes depicting biblical scenes and a beautiful Madonna and Child. Even though time has taken its toll on some of the artwork, their beauty is undeniable. The bell tower, a more recent addition from likely the 14th century, adds to its charm.
Santuario della Madonna del Soccorso
A short distance away, also in Ossuccio, you'll find the signs leading to the Santuario della Madonna del Soccorso. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Sacred Mountains of Piedmont and Lombardy. The ascent is gradual, passing 14 chapels, each illustrating a moment in the life of Christ.
As you climb, the views become more spectacular. You'll be treated to stunning panoramas of the central part of Lake Como, with Bellagio and the imposing Grigne mountains in the distance. The sanctuary itself, built in the 1500s, is a place of deep devotion. It owes its significance to the discovery of a marble statue of the Virgin Mary, now housed in an adjacent votive chapel, and a painting of the Madonna and Child displayed on a side altar.
The climb to the Sacro Monte is an experience in itself, offering not just spiritual reflection but also incredible vistas. There used to be a delightful, simple trattoria nearby, perfect for enjoying traditional dishes, though it's currently undergoing renovations. Still, the journey to the sanctuary is well worth it.
Abbazia dell’Acquafredda
Directly across the Val Perlana, facing the Madonna del Soccorso, stands the Abbazia dell’Acquafredda. This abbey was originally built by Cistercian monks from Morimondo in 1153. However, it was completely rebuilt in the 1600s. Its name, "Cold Water," comes from a spring located within the abbey's grounds.
While an internal visit hasn't been possible for the author, there are plans for renovations and a future opening. Even from the outside, its historical presence is palpable. It's a testament to the enduring legacy of monastic life in the region.
San Benedetto in Val Perlana
The path to our final church, a true medieval pearl, begins near the Abbazia dell’Acquafredda. This is San Benedetto in Val Perlana, perched at 815 meters above sea level. Records show its existence as early as 1083, making it contemporary with, or even older than, the Chiesa dei Santi Giacomo e Filippo.
The Abbey of San Benedetto is a prime example of Romanesque architecture on Lake Como. Its simple design, with three apses facing east and a sturdy square bell tower, gives it an austere yet captivating appearance. Though often closed to visitors, the journey to this sacred place, with its profound sense of history and the absolutely fantastic views over the lake, is incredibly rewarding.
The Walking Route: A Detailed Guide
Ready to lace up your walking shoes? The Giro delle 4 Chiese is a manageable yet rewarding trek. Here’s a breakdown of the route:
- Starting Point: Begin at the Chiesa dei Santi Giacomo e Filippo.
- To Madonna del Soccorso: Follow the Green Way for a few minutes until you see signs for the Madonna del Soccorso. The path then leads you up, first on an asphalt road and then onto the ancient, traffic-free path of the Sacro Monte. This route guides you past the 14 chapels.
- The Val Perlana Loop: The loop connecting to San Benedetto can start from the piazza at the Abbazia dell’Acquafredda. However, a recommended approach is to reach the Abbazia dell’Acquafredda from the other side of the valley and then begin your ascent towards San Benedetto. The path from this side is generally better maintained.
- Closing the Loop: From San Benedetto, you can descend back towards the Madonna del Soccorso, effectively closing the loop. If there has been significant rainfall recently, it might be safer to retrace your steps back the way you came.
Practical Tips for the Walk:
- Duration: The entire circuit is about 12 km. At a brisk pace, it takes around two hours. However, to truly appreciate the stunning panoramas, the churches, and the atmosphere, it's best to allocate at least 4 hours.
- Elevation Gain: Expect approximately 600 meters of elevation gain.
- Scenery: The route offers incredible views of the lake, the surrounding mountains, and the characteristic Y-shape of Lake Como. You'll ascend from the lake level (around 200 meters) towards higher elevations, with the Grigne mountains reaching up to 2410 meters, seemingly rising directly from the water.
- Footwear: Comfortable walking shoes are essential.
- Water and Snacks: Carry enough water, especially during warmer months.
In Conclusion: A Tapestry of Faith and Beauty
The Giro delle 4 Chiese is more than just a hike; it’s a profound connection to the history and spirit of Lake Como. These four sites, from the Romanesque simplicity of San Benedetto to the devotional art of the Madonna del Soccorso, tell stories that span centuries.
You'll witness the deep-rooted popular faith, evident in the miraculous discoveries at the sanctuary and the ancient structures that have endured. The ever-present backdrop of Lake Como, with its dramatic mountainsides plunging towards the water, adds an unforgettable layer to this experience.
Beyond the Churches: Culinary Delights and More
If the trattoria near the sanctuary is closed, worry not! You'll find excellent restaurants along the lake in Ossuccio and Lenno, both now part of the Tremezzina municipality. These charming towns offer delicious local cuisine and further opportunities for exploration.
Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como, Italy - Photo by Danny MolyneuxConsider a visit to the stunning Villa del Balbianello in Lenno, managed by the FAI. Its picturesque location on a promontory overlooking the lake is simply magical.
For a unique island experience, take a trip to the Isola Comacina, the only island on Lake Como. Explore its ancient church ruins and soak in the panoramic views.
The Giro delle 4 Chiese offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural splendor. It’s a journey that will leave you with lasting memories of the enchanting Lake Como region.
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